Diy c stand rack

Diy c stand rack DEFAULT

My DIY C-Stand dolly.

I once got an invaluable piece of advice: If you've got a light that cost you $1,, don't put it on a $10 stand. Many photographer's know the gut wrenching experience of a stand blowing over and the anticipation of an insurance claim (or the brutal reminder they don't have insurance). Thus, my love for c-stands. These rock solid stands are used on professional sets and studios because of their incredible strength, reach, and lifespan. They're also very heavy and somewhat awkward to store/transport if you have a smaller space or travel with your gear regularly. 

After some time scouring the web and only finding c-stand carts that were either too large or too expensive for my needs, I decided to make something myself. I have some novice woodworking skills and a mild obsession with making things. We had some wood scraps lying around, and I managed too spend no money and just few hours putting something together. 

I needed something that could hold 4 or more stands, that could be stored in the closet or set on the side of the studio, as well as easily be rolled on location. As you can see, the c-stand legs fold over to one side, making it very awkward to just lean a few in a corner, or stack them on a cart.  

IMG_jpg
IMG_jpg
IMG_jpg

This thing has held up remarkably well. Its function as a rack alone has made the studio feel more organized, and easily moving several stands on my own without removing the base or reflector holder is wonderfully efficient. Plus, not stacking or throwing my stands around helps them last longer. It being free could still be my favorite thing about it, though the parts probably wouldn't cost more than $$ 

Should you find yourself with a similar conundrum, I hope you feel inspired to make something yourself. There are countless DIY options that save you money when growing, and there's a special satisfaction that can only be gotten by building something. 

Sours: http://www.danielmoodyphotos.com/blog/c-stand

How to build a C-Stand box you can RocknRoll for around $ in parts!

July 1,

The fun of a problem is you get to be creative, and you get to try and find a solution! Over the years, I have had a lot of fun creating things like a fan system to quiet the Canon C’s internal fans, movie lights and modifiers, drip systems for fish tanks, and much more…

This article is about one item, that I hope some of my friends and colleagues will make and find beneficial to their video production business!

If you are like me, you’d have C-Stands on every shoot. They really are one of the most import tools on a shoot.

Sometime around , I got tired of laying C-Stands on top of my cases, and strapping them to a RocknRoller cart. (If for some reason you don&#;t know what a RocknRoller cart is&#; They are kind of the industry standard cart for lower budget day to day video production work, at least in the Maryland and Washington, DC area. They are great carts for the money. Check out their webite, here. ) Occasionally, a crew member would not properly tighten the straps and the C-stands would slip, and give us a good scare.  The last thing you want to do is have a C-Stand fall off a cart and onto a marble floor! It never happened, but it was the kind of nightmare that would wake me up at night.  I found the whole thing to be a problematic mess, and it often took two crew members to carefully unstrap that mess.

My solution was to design a wooden box that could hold 6 – C-Stands in an upright configuration. I also wanted it to fit nicely on a RocknRoller cart, and make life easier on small sets. What I ended with was a box that could hold so much more… The first box I made could hold 6 – C-stands, other stands, gel rolls, break apart frames, 5 ft. pieces of speed rail, and more. Another cool perk was it allowed us to connect bead board and a 4 x 4 black floppy to the c-stand knuckles.  It has been amazing!

I know you can buy carts for c stands, but they can be very expensive. They can also be difficult to fit into any vehicle smaller than a full size cargo van. Washington, DC has low hanging parking garages, so I needed to fit all my gear into a small cargo van or SUV.

I wanted to keep the build as simple as possible.  I used a jigsaw, a drill, a T-ruler, and other small tools to accomplish my first C-Stand box. For this post, I decided to build a smaller box to fit more easily into my SUV.

Before we get started, the following things are really important, and you will likely read them more than once during this post. Please take careful note!!!

  1. Always, always, always, ratchet strap your box to your cart before you start loading it!
  2. Always, always, always, counter balance your cart with something heavy like a sand bag box or grip box. In my case, one of the carts becomes a dedicated grip cart!
  3. If using a RocknRoller cart, don’t fully extend the cart to its widest setting! You are likely going to push the cart to max weight, and the cart will be stronger and more maneuverable if it is not full extended.
  4. Don’t load your cart beyond the manufactures’ weight limit for the cart!

This post is more of a guide on what to think about while you are making your C-Stand box, and not a step by step “how to”.  This is important to note, because my C-Stand box was designed using Matthews B C-Stands. There are other flavors of C-Stands out there and I can’t guarantee they would fit this box. My stands can fit into a box with a front to back depth of inches. You should measure your C-Stands before you get started! If they measure under inches, you will likely be good to go. If your C-Stands measure over inches, you’ll need to adjust your box accordingly. Also, you will need to measure and create a support shelf that is based on your C-Stand&#;s measurements. See photo.

I started out by making a simple reference sketch for the box I was going to create. Things can change a little, but it gives you a guide to look at during the build.

For this blog, I decided to make a shorter box than the original box. That box has been amazing, but I like the idea of having a box that takes up less space. If you are going to make your own box, I suggest keep the box between inches tall. The shorter box is smaller, a bit lighter, and more portable, but I feel the taller box is a little more secure. If space is not an issue, maybe go with a taller box.

When I first designed my C-Stand box, I was happy to find pre-fabricated boards that matched my dimensions in all but height. I found these boards at Lowes. I looked at Home Depot, but was unable to find them at my store. If you can’t find these boards, you may have to make more cuts. If you need to make more cuts, a jigsaw may not be optimal.

You will be putting a lot of pressure on the top walls of the box, so you will need metal support braces to strengthen these areas. I found the ones in the photograph below at Home Depot.

Here are the tools you’ll need, minus the T-Square used to pencil in the measured lines.  These tools include a Jigsaw and a Drill with bits. You may also want to use a sander or sand paper to smooth out the box edges and prevent splinters.

I placed my original box on a piece of the new wood, to give you a visual reference of how this box comes together.

I cut the bottom board to 21 ½ inches, but it’s a good idea to hold your boards together and make your measurement. You will later drill holes along the edge of the board to attached the ¾ inch walls to the base. If you accidently overcut a little, you might be able to use metal L braces to attach inside the inner walls. I built my first box using mostly L braces to hold together the walls.

I decided to cut my box down to inches, which is the shortest height I thought would still be safe. I highly suggest keeping your height between inches. The inch height of the old box, still allowed me to place in it, my inch Matthews C-Stands (B).

The wider board was tall enough that I could cut 2 boards out of it. This actually saved money and you won&#;t have to make any extra cuts.

Unfortunately, you will have to make some cuts. A jigsaw is not the most accurate saw, but if you draw straight lines and take your time, you can make decent straight cuts.

Once you have cut the two boards from the tallest board, you will have a left over center board. Measure out two 7-inch boards and cut them with the jigsaw. These will be used as the top of the box partitioning boards.

Carefully assemble the bottom and two corner boards. Hold them in position and trace a pencil line down the length of the inside of the bottom board.  This will let you have a visual representation of the width of the edge of the side boards. I used this to eye the center and drill pilot holes into the bottom board. Then I re-aligned the bottom board with sides boards and drilled through those holes into the 3/4-inch edge of the side boards. I did the first ones, one at a time and then placed in those screws and drilled the remaining holes. This makes it easier to keep everything lined up accurately.

Once I had the bottom and 2 walls complete, I created a resting platform for the C-Stands.

In order to create your resting platform, you will need to measure one of your C-stands. Try to be as precise as you can with the resting platform height. You want to minimize the rocking back and forth of the C-Stands.

Once you have completed and attached your resting platform, you will need to create three sections that fit 2 – C-Stands per section. This will help to reduce the C-Stands from sliding side to side.

After you have attach the sectioning cubes, create sectioning boards along the bottom of the box. See photo.

The bottom sections do not have to be perfectly accurate, but I do suggest making the top partitions different widths. You will likely have items that are slightly wider, and you’ll want those wider sections to place these items. See my photographed measurements for those partitions.

After you attach the 7-inch sectional boards, you will want to cut handle holes. Draw them inside the 7-inch sectional boards. You will be using a jigsaw, so keep in mind that you don’t want to cut into the sectional boards. Safely draw in these handles, and drill a large pilot hole inside each of the ovals. This will allow you to fit the jigsaw blade into the drill hole, and start cutting the oval shape.

Next up, place the metal braces on the top edges of the box. This will add strength and support. The straight braces have screw holes that are off center. I have kept my screw holes to the center to prevent splitting the boards. This means the corners of the metal braces stick out a little. I put a few layers of gaffer tape over all the top edges. The tape protects hands from getting nicks and splinters.

Also, I did not make my resting platform as precise as I would have liked, so I cut down 3M rubber-stair-step stickers and placed them in the box to keep the C-Stands from rocking back and forth. I used a single screw with a washer to hold them down securly. See photos below.


It is important to have a sturdy cart. I have a RocknRoller cart that can support lbs.

Safety first!!! Make sure you ratchet strap this box to your cart. If you don’t do this, you are asking for big trouble!

One time, my team forgot to strap down the box and began filling it. As it was being loaded, the box fell right of the back of the cart into the parking lot. It was a mess, but thankfully there was no damage.

You also need to counter balance the cart or the same kind of thing could happen, but this way the strapped cart will seesaw and fall over on its side. The other end of the cart will be sticking straight up in the air! With this said, if you follow the guide lines, you should be fine. We strap everything down on our cart, including the sand box and the grip box. When we get to the set up loacation, we unstrap the sand box and the grip box, but we leave the C-Stand box strapped all day, and only take it off when it is unloaded. You will have full access to the items in the box, even when it is strapped to the cart.

You are ready to rock n roll!  😉

Check out the photos below to see how much “STUFF” can fit in this box! Don&#;t forget to always secure your items!

If you make one of these boxes, please send me photos! I&#;d appreciate it, and would love to see all of you who are building and making good use of your boxes.  Also, it would be great to write blog updates with people&#;s experiences and modifications!

Peace and Health!

Chris @ PulseCinema

About me: I am a Cinematographer working on film and video production in Washington DC, Baltimore, Maryland, and beyond. I do also Direct but really enjoy collaborating with other Directors and am very happy to simply make images!

Chris McGuinness is the Chief Attendant at PulseCinema. PulseCinema is a full service video production company serving Washington, DC and Baltimore, MD, and beyond.

 

Sours: http://www.pulsecinema.com/how-to-build-a-c-stand-box-you-can-rocknroll-for-aroundin-parts/
  1. Male body reference drawing
  2. Hidden summoners card list price
  3. 6 32 screws
  4. Adjustable height desk woodworking plans
  5. City data real estate

How to make your own DIY mobile light stand storage cart

If you’re anything like me, you’ve collected a lot of light stands. And when not in use, they all just get laid down and piled on top of each other, eventually falling over. They take up far too much room, and if you need to set up a bunch around your studio, it often requires multiple trips to get them one or two at a time.

This video from photographer Simon Ellingworth provides a fantastic DIY storage solution for light stands in your studio. It can also hold other lighting accessories such as umbrellas clamps, tripods and monopods, too.

Carts are great for quickly moving things around a studio or other location, and we’ve shown you how they can be used to organise your gear before, but I’ve never thought of using one for light stands before.

The cart Simon shows in the video is fairly substantial. To buy this style of cart new they start at around $, but you can pick them up fairly inexpensively on the used market through sites like eBay. They’re the fairly standard sort you might found being used in schools, libraries, and other places where they’re regularly wheeling things around. You could always build your own cart from scratch, too, if you have your own studio and you have a bunch of suitable materials laying around.

Simon’s addition to the cart is a solid board at the bottom, and then some cardboard carpet tubes, which have been cut to various lengths to accommodate different types and sizes of light stands and umbrellas. You could also use giant postal tubes or concrete forming tubes from your local hardware store. Clamps and arms are then simply attached to the cart’s handles.

It’s a quick solution to the light stand storage problem which allows you to keep everything organised and ready to go when you need it.

This and many more tips are included in Simon’s complete online on-demand course How to setup a Home PhotographicStudio available at Trade Secrets Live.

Filed Under: DIYTagged With: DIY, Equipment Cart, Simon Ellingworth

Sours: https://www.diyphotography.net/how-to-make-your-own-diy-mobile-light-stand-storage-cart/
DIY C-Stand!!!

Need to Store Your Tripods & C-Stands? This is a Great, Cheap DIY Solution

Getting gear is exciting and fun, but storing it, especially when you have a lot of it, can be a real nightmare.

If you've got a single-person camera package, chances are you don't have a plethora of tripods and C-stands lying around, so storage probably isn't a huge issue. But, if you're running a small studio, you're going to have to come up with some solutions on how to pack them away.

Lixi Studios has a great semi-DIY solution -- using inexpensive snowboard racks to store tripods and C-stands. They not only get your equipment off of the ground (which is just a terrible and dangerous idea anyway), but they allow you to separate and organize them much easier than if they were in a big pile in some closet somewhere.

Snowboard racks range in price depending on what features they have, but you can get some for as little as $ This one used in the video comes from Pro Board Racks. It has 4 padded racks, is made out of solid pine, and will cost you $

Now, you don't necessarily have to use a snowboard rack. If you have a significant amount of room (and money), you could use some sort of metal shelving; if you don't, you could mount some metal hooks (maybe some bike hangers) to the wall. That solution will limit you pretty significantly in terms of how many tripods you could fit on each hook -- and maybe your tripod will end up being too large/oddly shaped for them.

What kinds of DIY solutions do you use to store your tripods and C-stands? Let us know down in the comments.     

Sours: https://nofilmschool.com//01/need-store-your-tripods-c-stands-great-cheap-diy-solution

Rack diy c stand

And the boy is about ten years old. Sorry, we blocked it, please come in. She said. Pretty.

Best Budget Friendly Light Stand 2020 Update (The Cheap Cstand)

Smiled, bent down, picked it up and handed it to me. I also smiled at him in response, took the pen, and he accidentally touched my hand. This touch just pissed me off, I began to breathe impulsively and felt that I was tense and excited to the limit. All this betrayed me - it was clear from his eyes that he understood everything.

You will also be interested:

Brush. Having developed a little ring of her ass, added a third finger, began to fuck her back hole with them. In about ten, I developed the Countess's ass enough so as not to tear it inadvertently. The mistress of the ass, at first. Was very tense, which created some difficulties for me, but when I began to fuck her ass with one finger, she relaxed a little, and even began to moan a little.



1179 1180 1181 1182 1183