2001 ford f150 pcm location

2001 ford f150 pcm location DEFAULT
115AFlasher Relay25AInstrument Cluster325ACigar Lighter45APark Lamp Relay, Headlamp Relay, Autolamp Module Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module, Power Mirror Switch515ADigital Transmission Range (DTR) Sensor (A/T), Backup Lamp Switch (M/T), Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Module, Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly, Heater-A/C Control Assembly, Blend Door Actuator65AShift Lock Actuator, Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Rear Air Suspension (RAS) Module7—Not Used85ARadio, Main Light Switch, Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module9—Not Used10—Not Used1130AWasher Pump Relay, Wiper Run/Park Relay, Wiper Hi/LO Relay, Windshield Wiper Motor125AData Link Connector (DLC)1315ARear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) Module, Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch, Brake Pressure Switch1415ABatteiy Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Relay155AGeneric Electronic Module (GEM)1620AInstrument Cluster (W/O DRL), Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Module, Hi-Beam Headlamps (Power supplied through Multi-Function Switch)17—Not Used185APark Lamp Relay, Trailer Electronic Brake Controller, Main Light Switch, Trailer Tow Run Relay, Front Park/Turn Lamps, License Lamps, Stop/Park/Turn Lamps, Tail/Side Marker Lamps (Power supplied through Main Light Switch)1910AInstrument Cluster, Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor205APowertrain Control Module (PCM), Generic Electronic Module (GEM)/Central Timer Module (CTM)2115AClutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch (W/O RAP), Starter Interrupt Relay (W/RAP)2210AAir Bag Diagnostic Monitor, Passive De-Activation (PAD) Module2310ATrailer tow Batteiy Charge Relay, 4X4 Hub Solenoid, 4X2 Hub Solenoid, Flasher Relay, Shift on the Fly Relay2410ABlower Relay255A4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Module, 4WABS Relay2610ADaytime Running Lamps (DRL) Module, Right Headlamp275AMain Light Switch, Fog Lamp Relay2810ALeft Headlamp295AAutolamp Module, Instrument Cluster, Transmission Control Switch (TCS), Brake Warning Resistor/Diode Assembly (W/RABS)3030ARadio Noise Capacitor, Ignition Coil, PCM Power Diode31—Not UsedRelay 1—Interior Lamp RelayRelay 2—Batteiy Saver RelayNot Used—Not UsedRelay 4—One Touch Down RelayRelay 5—ACC Delay Relay
Sours: https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-f-150-1997-2003-fuses-and-relay
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • 377,000 MILES
Will a power control module (PCM) computer out of a 2001 ford F150 5.4l work in my truck listed above as long as I take it to the ford dealership and have it reprogrammed?
have the same problem?
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 7:31 AM
Good morning,

It must be the exact number of the one you are replacing and you have about a 50-50 chance of it taking the program. Sometimes it works fine and other times it does not.

Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 7:56 AM
It used to work with previous program levels of the diagnostic software, but the last time that I tried doing a PCM swap it didn't work, but some techs keep their own laptops with older versions that might work.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 8:00 AM
What would you recommend I do?
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 8:06 AM
If you need an ECM, I would get a new one and have it flashed to your VIN.

What makes you think you need an ECM?

Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 8:21 AM
Because when I got the truck the idle would go up and down randomly and I would be driving it and all the sudden it would lose power and then kick back in randomly. Then a couple of months later one day it started running rough and it didn't have any power at all a week. After that I was going down the road and the truck shut off and wouldn't start back up. It would turn over but not even try to start. I plug a code scanner up to it and it just says error. The day after it broke down the battery was dead and it was a new battery. Oh, and it seemed like it took a long time to shift gears.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 9:13 AM
No, it will turn over but wont even try to start.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 12:47 PM
No, the rpm doesn't move at all. When I turn the key on I hear 2 clicks under the dash it sounds like something is trying to turn on but then it turns back off.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM
And no I don't hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key on. I have already changed the fuel pump and filter, because I thought it was going out.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 1:01 PM
Yes sir, I have both a voltmeter and a test light, but i'm at work right now I get off at 5:00 so I will be home around 6:30. Can we continue this diagnostic test when I get home?
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 1:37 PM
Tonight will be fine.

Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 1:41 PM
Okay, thank you so much. You don't know how much I appreciate this.
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 1:42 PM
Pop the hood and on the driver side, open the fuse box cover and give this relay a tap. If it starts or stalls when you tap it, try swapping it with it's neighbor. Very very very common!
Image (Click to enlarge)
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 2:30 PM
As he said, that is the power relay that controls all power to the fuel pump relay and a lot of other components that I highlighted in the diagrams I sent you.

Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 3:12 PM
Okay, so I checked all my fuses and I found a couple of them that were blown so I replaced them and my truck started and stayed running but it still has no power. It idles when I have it in park just fine but once I put it in gear it it idles real low and tries to shut off. When i'm driving the engine runs rough like it has a couple of cylinders misfiring and when I give it gas it acts like it has a vacuum leak. I have to barely touch the gas pedal little by little and let it build up speed it takes me about 1 1/2 miles to get up to 35 mph.
Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 4:28 AM
It's not the catalytic converters. I got some off another truck and swap them out and still the same problem. I found a plug towards the back of the motor on top that is not plugged into anything not sure what it's for. I was wondering if maybe you knew.
Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 7:56 AM
Can you post a picture for me of the plug?

Also, did you check the compression in a cylinder or 2 to see if the valve timing jumped?

I would not rule out the exhaust. I would drop the front pipes and start it and drive to be sure the rest of the system is not restricted.

Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 8:58 AM

Related Engine Computer Program Content

Sours: https://www.2carpros.com/questions/curious-34952649
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Need a replacement ECM?  We sell preprogrammed “plug and play” engine computers (ECMs, TCMs, and PCMs) for all makes and models!  We only sell OEM parts that are GUARANTEED to work with your vehicle.

Order today and it’ll ship within 48 hours:  find the right ECM for your vehicle now »



If you have a failing or malfunctioning engine computer — also commonly referred to as an ECM, PCM, or TCM — it’s in your (and your car’s) best interest to get it taken care of as quickly as possible. The module itself is a complex piece of technology—basically your car’s central computer—that involves software and code and programming to work properly. The good news is, actually physically replacing your engine’s ECM is something that you can do yourself relatively easily. If you can change your car’s oil, you can replace a faulty ECM. All you need is to have it correctly programmed, and you can do the rest.

Where Can I Find My Car’s Computer?

As easy as it may be to replace your engine control module yourself, you have to first be able to find it. And to make things more difficult, the location of the ECM often varies from car model to car model.

This is why when it comes to locating your ECM it’s best to consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual to find the exact location, but typically they are found in the engine compartment, under the passenger floorboard, under the seats, or behind the kick panels. If you are not able to find the ECM with your manual, try following the main harness of electrical cables and eventually they’ll lead you to it. What you’re looking for is simply a tamper-resistant circuit board protected on all sides by a durable cover.

Depending on your car’s make and model, the unit itself will be labeled either “Engine Control Module”, “Engine Control Unit”, “Engine Control Computer”, or even “Powertrain Control Module” or “Powertrain Control Unit”.

If you see any of these labels on what looks like a slightly larger computer router or modem with tons of wires connected to it, then you’ve found it.

Common Locations for a PCM, ECM, or TCM

Again, because the ECM could be located in several different locations in your vehicle, it is always a good idea to check the owner’s manual before starting your search and wasting time by looking in the wrong areas. To help you out, here are some examples of where the ECM is located on a few different makes and models:

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT – The engine control module or, in this case, the powertrain control module (PCM) is located in the engine compartment, on right side of firewall.

Jeep Wrangler – Depending on the year of your Jeep Wrangler, the engine control module should either be located below the hood or under the dashboard.

2000 Mercedes S430 or S500 – For these Mercedes models, the engine control module is under the hood on the passenger’s side.

Importance of Finding and Replacing an ECM

Your car’s engine control module (ECM) is crucial to the efficient and proper functioning of your vehicle.  The ECM essentially optimizes and makes changes to your engine to produce peak performance under different conditions and affects nearly every essential system in your vehicle. Without this function, you will have increased and unnecessary wear on engine components, your performance will suffer, and, if left long enough, damage to the engine will accrue and you will be strapped with increasingly expensive repairs.

If you are having a problem with your ECM, then the best thing to do is to get it fixed as soon as possible. At Car Computer Exchange, we will do the programming for you. All you have to do is locate where the ECM is on your vehicle, remove the old one, and plug in the new one. It’s as simple as that!

Sours: https://carcomputerexchange.com/blog/pcm-ecm-location/
Watch This Before Buying a Ford F-150 1997-2004

1L3F-12A650-ASB | 2001 Ford Truck F-Series 5.4L ECM Engine Computer PCM ECU Programmed & Updated | MPC-141

Returns/Warranty: T&C

All items come with a lifetime warranty. Warranty does not include any labor associated with installation and/or removal of parts, key and/or Locksmith fees. Buyer will not be reimbursed for any such fees--NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyer hereby acknowledges and agrees that the Seller's liability is limited to the price of the item sold and Seller is not liable for any damage and/or injury sustained that results from any item(s) sold by any entity operated by Flagship One, Inc and Buyer hereby now and forever relinquishes Seller from any such liability. Returns must be in original condition and be accompanied by a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) otherwise the return will be deemed unauthorized. Unauthorized returns will not be processed and will be held for no more than 45 days after receipt. After 45 days, if an unauthorized return is not claimed or accompanied by an RMA, Seller reserves the right to maintain possession of the unclaimed/unauthorized return. Electrical parts are tested prior to purchase and if returned, all units will be inspected for burnt components, physical damage and water damage. Returns will be processed in the order received and may have a greater handling time than order processing. The lifetime warranty shall be void if an item is returned with any signs of: (a)burnt components; (b)physical and/or water damage; (c)misuse, abuse, modifications, opened, tampered with, and/or used for any purpose not originally intended; (d)vehicle is involved in a collision; or (e)security seal is removed, broken and/or damaged. Buyer must activate warranty within 20 days of receipt to be valid. Returns are subject to a 20% restocking fee. Returned programmed items are subject to an additional $85 non-refundable programming fee and, if Buyer purchased keys, the return is subject to an additional $90 non-refundable key fee.

All returns for money back must be received by Seller within 30 days from the date of original purchase—NO EXCEPTIONS. Returns received after 30 days from the date of original purchase include an option for an exchange or in-store credit. Unless otherwise expressly provided, in-store credit is subject to the return fees when the unit is free of defect which shall be determined solely by Seller. Seller expressly reserves the right to require a Buyer to return an alleged faulty/defective unit to Seller at the Buyer's expense for testing prior to replacement. NO replacement shall be issued until receipt of return. All items are OEM/Refurbished and Seller will NOT reimburse any fees a Buyer expends in connection with a possible faulty/defective unit(s) including, but not limited to Locksmith fees, diagnostic fees, rental car fees, storage fees, dealership fees, third party reprogramming fees, etc. This transaction shall be deemed to have been made in the State of New York and the validity, interpretation and performance shall be governed by NY. Exclusive jurisdiction and venue over any disputes arising out of or in connection with this transaction shall be brought in Nassau County, NY. After one claim, the warranty is exhausted. Buyer hereby understands, acknowledges, agrees and accepts all of the terms set forth herein upon purchase and that the terms set forth herein shall be controlling.



q: What is a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)?

The vehicle identification number (VIN) refers to a unique code that is given to each automobile. The VIN acts as the vehicle's fingerprint, as no two vehicles have the same number. A VIN is composed of 17 characters (digits and capital letters) that act as a unique identifier for the vehicle. Each character is used to reference the vehicle's unique features, specifications and manufacturer. VIN numbers can be used to track recalls, registrations, warranty claims, thefts and insurance coverage. In our case, the VIN is used to identify the correct module for a particular vehicle.


q: What does "Plug & Play" mean?

Plug & Play or Plug ‘N Drive refers to all control modules that don’t require additional programming. Most units before 1996 (OBD I) are referred to as plug-n-play. All of our Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth & Jeep units are sold as Plug & Play.


q: What does "Programmed & Updated" mean?

This term refers to the programming process our mechanics perform on all specified control modules. During this process the vehicles replacement engine control module is VIN Programmed and flashed with the most recent manufacturer updates. These updates can help improve the performance and fuel economy of the vehicle.


q: How much is shipping?

Flagship One offers free shipping throughout the USA. There is a 1-3 day handling time after an order is place. We use USPS Priority shipping to deliver all of our modules. This usually takes 1-3 business days on average and most of our modules are delivered to the customer in less then 5 business days. In some cases we can expedite the shipping and will inform you if that is a possibility.


q: Where can I locate my VIN?

You can find the VIN (17 digit identification number) engraved at the bottom corner of the drivers side windshield or inside the drivers door. It can also be found on the title, registration or insurance card of the vehicle.

Sours: https://www.fs1inc.com/oem-engine-computer-programmed-flashed-2001-ford-f150-1l3f-12a650-asb-svb1-5-4l.html

F150 pcm ford location 2001

Ford F-150 PCM Removal & Replacement

A failed PCM will definitively result in a no start condition, although you should not be quick to blame the PCM without first performing a series of basic diagnostics in order to narrow down the problem as PCM failures are not necessarily “common”. Most of the PCM failures we come across are the result of aftermarket devices such as performance tuners/programmers. Although unaware of the reasoning as to why these devices seem to stress the PCM, we’ve replaced many non-responsive or otherwise malfunctioning PCMs on vehicles equipped with such devices.

The number one symptom of a PCM failure is the inability to connect a scantool or diagnostic system to the PCM. Before replacing the PCM, we recommend verifying that the PCM relay and diode in the underhood fuse panel are in working condition. If one of these components fails, the PCM will fail to power on and the problem may be misdiagnosed. If replacing your PCM, also replace the PCM relay and diode. The locations of these components may vary and are identified in your owners manual.

Click any thumbnail to view high resolution full-size image with details

removing battery from vehicle

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then the positive battery terminal.

• Remove the battery from the vehicle.

Removing battery tray on passenger side

• Remove the battery box/tray bolts with a 13 mm socket (4 bolts). If the bolts are corroded (as pictured), take necessary precautions to avoid coming in contact with caustic debris.

disconnecting PCM connector

• The PCM travels through the firewall on the passenger side. The device itself is located inside the cabin, however the connector is only accessible from under the hood. Use a 10 mm socket to completely loosen the PCM connector retaining bolt, then carefully disconnect the connector from the PCM (note - the bolt will stay with the connector as it is loosened; do not attempt to remove it from the connector).

Removing PCM from vehicle

• The PCM is located under the dash behind the passenger side kick panel. With the panel removed, remove the small black plastic clip that secures the PCM to the mounting bracket.

• To remove the PCM from the mounting bracket, maneuver it towards the driver side slightly, then pull straight out.

• Reinstallation is exactly opposite removal; do not overtighten PCM connector retaining bolt.

underhood fuse box

• Locate and replace the PCM power relay. The location may vary by model year, refer to your vehicle's owners manual.

Sours: http://www.f150hub.com/maintenance/f-150-pcm-removal.html
Ford F-150 PCM/Computer Replacement - 2004 to 2008

Whether you like it or not, your vehicle is filled to the brim with computers. While these computers are a dream come true when everything is working the way they should, they can quickly turn into a nightmare when circuits start to fail.

Luckily for everyone, these computers rarely fail. Because when they do, they’re expensive to replace. One of those magical computers is the Powertrain Control Module, and as the name implies, it controls everything in the powertrain.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about your PCM and what you need to do if it starts acting up. Let’s start with a look at the signs to look for:

The most common symptom of a bad PCM is poor engine performance together with a check engine light on your dashboard. You may also notice problems with the transmission like shifting issues. Poor fuel economy and increased emissions are quite common also.

While it’s not common for a PCM to break, it does happen from time to time. Before you jump straight to the PCM, though, rule out any other potential causes.

Here is a more detailed list of the six most common symptoms of a faulty PCM below with that noted caveat.

Bad Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Symptoms

1. A Check Engine Light

Check Engine Light On Dashboard E1609869927250

The first sign that your PCM is having issues is likely going to be a check engine light. The light could be for anything related to the powertrain. Just keep in mind that the problem is more likely with the sensor, wiring, or just about anything else.

If your vehicle has a check engine light, rule out every other possible cause before jumping to the PCM. Check the trouble codes with an OBD2 scanner

2. Poor Performance

Slow Acceleration

Your PCM controls performance, so it makes sense that if it’s not responding correctly, that performance will suffer. The more screwed up your PCM, the more likely you’ll have multiple issues leading to poor performance.

However, if just a single part of your PCM isn’t working correctly, you may only have poor performance under certain conditions, like idling or accelerating.

Related: 8 Causes Why Your Car Won’t Accelerate

3. Problems Starting

Hard Starting

If your PCM problems get bad enough, you might not be able to get your vehicle started. At the very least, it might be hard to start, especially in colder conditions.

If your vehicle is having problems starting and it’s related to the PCM, it’s a pretty serious problem that you need to have looked at before you total your engine.

Related: 5 Causes of a Car Engine That Cranks But Won’t Start

4. Increased Emissions

Black Smoke From Exhaust

When everything is working correctly, your PCM minimizes your vehicle’s emissions by optimizing performance. When it’s not working the way it should, performance suffers, and you’ll likely have an increase in emissions. However, unless you’re taking your vehicle for an emission test, you probably won’t notice anything different.

5. Poor Fuel Economy

Bad Fuel Consumption

If everything isn’t working correctly, it’s not surprising that your fuel economy will suffer as a result. For instance, you’ll need to accelerate more if your turbo isn’t generating enough boost because the PCM isn’t telling it to.

There are tons of examples like this, but with a faulty PCM, you’ll likely be wasting fuel.

6. Shifting Problems

Car Shifting Problems E1609782519191

If your vehicle is having problems shifting into different gears, then the PCM might be the problem. Your PCM controls everything that both your engine and your transmission does. So, if you’re having any issues with your powertrain, you might be able to trace it back to the PCM.

If your vehicle is having problems shifting, it’s a severe condition that you need to have addressed immediately. Otherwise, your vehicle is going to handle erratically, which can quickly lead to an accident.

PCM Function

Car Control Board Circuit

The PCM is the brain of the power delivery unit in your engine. It controls various features, including ignition timing, fuel delivery, emissions, turbo boost pressure, idle speed, throttle control, and so much more.

While you might’ve heard of Transmission Control Module (TCM) or an Engine Control Module (ECM), a PCM controls both of those functions. So, if your vehicle has a PCM, it either houses both of those components in a single unit, or the one computer controls both functions.

The PCM controls all of these functions through a variety of sensors that communicates with it. It starts by sending a control out to an actuator and then measures the actual results through a sensor.

The PCM is programmed to tell each actuator what to do when specific commands are met – like when hit the throttle – and then it’s programmed to know what the acceptable readings are in response.

When something isn’t working correctly, it shoots a warning to the driver through a check engine light. No, it’s not an easy component to understand, and unless you have the proprietary software, it’s not a component you’re going to fix either.

PCM Location

Powertrain Control Module Location

The PCM is most often located in the engine bay near the fuse box or inside the car near the fuse box. It can often also be located under the front windshield behind some covers.

There are a few different locations that the manufacturer can place your vehicle’s PCM, but the most common location is in the engine bay. The PCM doesn’t look like anything special, just a metal box with some wires coming out of it.

If your vehicle’s PCM isn’t in the engine bay, it might be inside the passenger compartment. While this location isn’t all that common if it is there, it is typically underneath the passenger side dashboard – behind all the plastic coverings.

In the ultra-rare instance that your PCM isn’t in either of those locations, it might be in your vehicle’s trunk. This isn’t as common since all of the wires from the engine will have to run to the vehicle’s rear to communicate with the PCM.

PCM Replacement Cost

The PCM is a computer, and computers aren’t cheap to replace. That’s why the average PCM replacement cost is anywhere between $800 and $1,500, depending on the car model and labor costs.

Even worse, this is almost all in the cost of the PCM itself. Labor typically only runs between $75 and $100. But if you think you can save yourself $100 and replace it yourself, think again.

That’s because you need to program the PCM to your specific vehicle, and unless you have the proprietary software to do it, you’ll need to take it to the dealership.

The good news is that the dealership will see if they can’t reprogram the PCM before replacing it. If you’re lucky, they’ll find an update and reprogram it for you, which generally only costs between $75 and $150.

Sours: https://mechanicbase.com/electric/pcm-powertrain-control-module/

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