Prusa vs ender 3

Prusa vs ender 3 DEFAULT

MyTechFun.com

Title: Prusa MK3s vs Ender 3 V2 - comparison. Watch on youtube: https://youtu.be/AwhUW8fPDoY

Tags: 3dprint, ender3, prusa, mk3s, comparison, creality,

Since I published a review of Creality Ender 3 V2, I got a lot of questions from my friends or students, who knows that I already have Prusa MK3s, what is the difference between these two 3D printers or which one to buy. So in this video I am going step-by-step comparison between two most popular 3D printers in the world, the Creality Ender 3 V2 and Prusa MK3s. Price difference is huge, but if we consider the price in final score, these printers may be comparable.
Specification table can be seen below this text.

Ender 3 V2 on Banggood (affiliate link):
https://www.banggood.com/custlink/GGvh5E38Rt

Prusa website (not affiliate):
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/original-prusa-i3-mk3s

Specification table, mentioned in the video:

 

Creality Ender 3 V2

Prusa MK3s

Price in USD

USD

USD / USD (for kit)

Price in EUR (incl. VAT)

EUR (not sure about VAT)

EUR / EUR (for kit)

3D Printing area

22 x 22 x 25 cm

25 x 21 x 21 cm or x x in) (X×Y×Z)

Y axis

V-slot wheels, aluminum extrusion
Nema17 stepper + Timing Belt
with new tensioner

Three linear bearings, two 8mm rod, plastic holders with zip tie
Nema17 stepper + Timing Belt

X axis

V-slot wheels on aluminum extrusion
Nema17 stepper + Timing Belt
with new tensioner

linear bearings, 8mm rod,
tension part critical
Nema17 stepper + Timing Belt

Z axis

Leaded by V-slot on two sides ( wheels in alu extrusions)
Moved by stepper motor and T8 screw only on ONE SIDE.

Leaded by 8mm linear rod, on two sides
Moved by TWO stepper motors with T8 screws on both side

Max travel speed

mm/s

+ mm/s

Extruder

Bowden extruder

Direct drive

Nozzle

°C ( °F)

°C / ( °F)

Hotbed Temperature:

in spec ≤°C (in practice °C ??)

°C ( °F)

Hotbed type:

Carborundum Glass (textured on one side)

removable magnetic heatbed /
PEI spring steel sheets (smooth or textured), FLEXIBLE

Bed leveling

Manual (4 screws)

Automatic calibration 9 points (PINDA probe sensor)

Layer Thickness:

mm

– mm

Filament:

PLA/TPU/PETG

Any thermoplastic including Nylon and Polycarbonate

User interface, display

Color, graphic display, not touch scr, rot. knob fast, accurate <3

Mono textual display, button, not touch scr., rotating knob sometimes inaccurate

Stepper motor drivers

silent TMC

silent TMC detect collisions, Stall-detection (no need for limit switches)

About cooling fans

air flowing laud

silent, can work next to it, no probl.

 

Part Colling better (?)

Part Cooling OK

Other

Resume printing function

Resume printing function

Other

Tool holder

Two spool holders

Other

micro SD card

Bigger SD card

 

CrealitySlicer (Cura)

PrusaSlicer

 

 

Contents:
Introduction
Specification table
Price
3D printing size
First impressions
Homing
Y axis
X axis
Z axis
Travel speed
Extruder
Nozzle and hotend
Hotbed
Bed leveling
Layer thickness
UI and display
Stepper motor drivers
Cooling fans
Other specs
3D printing
Testing layer adhesion
Results of testing
About materials
Conclusions

Ender 3 V2 review video
https://youtu.be/gyKtsuhO4Uk

Support my work over PayPal:
https://mytechfun.com/donation

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Sours: https://www.mytechfun.com/video/61

3 idea Imagine Create Print Creality Ender-3 DIY Kit 3D Printer for Home and School Use, Resume Printing V-Slot Prusa i3 - Build Volume x x mm

FDM Printing Machine

This 3D printing machine works on a smart and sophisticated printing method known as Fusion Deposition Modelling (FDM), in which a thermally sensitive filament is heated to its melting point and extruded through a precision extruder layer after layer to create a three-dimensional object. This method is simple yet provides realistic quality output and can be used by beginners and experts.

Recovered Print Function

This machine is incorporated with recovered printing function that can resume an unfinished operation which may have been interrupted due to power outage or unforeseen incidents. This prevents you from starting all over again and helps save time and filament. It can resume printing from the last recorded extruder position.

Stable Mechanical Structure

This powerful printing machine is integrated with a CNC machining Y-Rail mounting groove to precisely position itself. It is also built-in with V-slot and POM-Wheels that render smooth operation with minimal noise. Together, these components allow the printer to remain stable and function with high precision.

Sours: https://www.amazon.in/Creality-Printer-Resume-Printing-V-Slot/dp/B07DGV2L8Z
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We recommend that your first printer should probably be the Prusa i3 MK3.

Prusa: The $ option that &#;just works&#;

Here&#;s why: It&#;s a great printer that just works. We tell people, &#;if you&#;re looking for a printer to just print cool things, get a Prusa&#;. The slicing software has profiles designed specifically for the machine, provided by the manufacturer. The machine has software-enabled auto-leveling to compensate for your poor assembly (haha but seriously). They have an ecosystem that, from start to finish, just works and makes it easy for you, the end user, to make great prints.

Don&#;t get me wrong &#; there&#;s still a learning curve! But this is the most painless way to get into the hobby, and it will do what you need it to do. Our 3D Printing store runs other machines, but there&#;s a reason we have 12 of this machine!

Now a Prusa will set you back about $1, AUS. That&#;s a bit of a hit to the hip pocket. We think that for most people, this still represents the best cost-benefit. You can pay a lot more and get something a lot better, but you probably don&#;t need to spend that.

Likewise, you might think, &#;These other printers are so much cheaper! Look how much money I will save!&#; Well, most of the time they are cheaper for a reason and they are not as polished or well thought-through. What you save in dollars you will repay in headaches.

Ender 3: a cheaper alternative with a steeper learning curve

There is one cheaper option we do recommend, however: the Ender 3. This one will set you back around $ &#; $ AUD, so it is a lot cheaper than the Prusa. If you want the cheapest possible printer, don&#;t waste your time with junk that pretends to be a 3D printer, get this one.

We don&#;t sell either of these printers, by the way. We just love it when other people love 3D Printing, and we&#;d love to save some people some headaches.

The Ender 3 has a steeper learning curve than the Prusa. You will need to re-flash the firmware right out of the box to have thermal runaway protection enabled (the Prusa has this enabled already). You will need to learn to manually level the print bed, because it does not have software to compensate for poorer assembly. You will have to configure your own profile in the slicing software as its not provided by the manufacturer.

Once it is printing well, the Ender 3 can be very rewarding. You will have learned a lot and you can get very good prints.

Both the Prusa and the Ender have similar size print beds (the Ender&#;s is slightly smaller, but the same height). They both can print with the same filament.

The Prusa will print faster, because it is more rigid, and at the end of the day it will always print better than the Ender.

Ultimately, it&#;s up to you to choose &#; but hopefully you now feel more informed and can make a great decision you feel confident about.

We&#;d love to chat to you about your 3D Printing needs. Get in touch!

Sours: https://www.phaser3d.com/should-your-first-printer-be-a-prusa-i3-mk3-or-an-ender-3/
Prusa i3 MK3S+ Review [ 2021 Build - Pro's \u0026 Con's ]

3D printer assembly kits are easy to screw up. They’re designed to keep their costs down, which means corners might be cut and details that you desperately need may be lost.

But once in a while, a company knows how to transcend the limitations of the genre, and delivers an excellent quality that you can build yourself.

And we’ve found two of them.

The Ender 3 and the Prusa i3 MK3 are both great choices if you’re looking for an affordable way to get into 3D printing and you’re not afraid to build some stuff to get there.

They both give you immense value for your money, they both have a fairly painless assembly process, and they both print 3D objects you can be proud of.

So which one is right for you?

Bottom Line Up Front: So if you want to see what the 3D printing fuss is all about, the Ender 3 is the perfect place to start. If you’re looking for a kit that ups the game and lets you try out a bunch of new features, the original Prusa i3 MK3S is worth its price here, if you’ve got the money. You really can’t go wrong either way.

Main Differences Between the Ender 3 vs Prusa i3 MK3

The main differences between teh Ender 3 and Prusa i3 MK3 are:

  • The Prusa i3 MK3 print bed is slightly larger than the Ender 3
  • The Prusa i3 MK3 prints faster than than the Ender 3 because it has a rigid bed
  • The Ender 3 is generally less expensive compared to the Prusa i3 MK3
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers

The Creality 3D printer line is completely open-source, allowing for add-ons and upgrades of almost every component on the machine. This 3D printer gives you an awesome foundation for experimentation.

Check Price Buy at Amazon.com

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

About the Ender 3

First up is Creality’s Ender 3, a desktop setup that is excellent for beginner users who don’t want to overstep their budget. Creality’s whole deal is making 3D printer kits accessible, and the China-based company has been improving on their models since their beginning in

Their Ender series is designed for the hobbyist user, but don’t let that make you think of bad quality – they’ve perfected the under $ print until you can’t distinguish it from prints that came off rigs that cost two or three times as much.

Their Ender series is designed to get you involved in every step of the 3D printing process, from seeing how your machine is put together to watching the finished project materialize. Here are all the details you need to find out if Ender 3 is your best bet.

Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers

The Creality 3D printer line is completely open-source, allowing for add-ons and upgrades of almost every component on the machine. This 3D printer gives you an awesome foundation for experimentation.

Check Price Buy at Amazon.com

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

NOTE: Here are some of the best Ender 3 upgrades in ( upgrade kit options, stepper motor, print heads, beds, etc…)

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Ender 3 Specifications

Printing technology

FDM

Print area (build volume)

mm x mm x mm

Printer size

mm x mm x mm

Printer weight

kg

Filament type

mm PLA, ABS, or TPU

Extruder Nozzle diameter

mm

Maximum print speed

mm/sec

Maximum layer resolution

mm

Print precision

+/- mm

Heated bed

Yes

Connectivity

SD card, USB

LCD screen

Yes

Pros of the Ender 3

Ender 3 Price

The Ender 3 is one of the most affordable desktop 3D printers you will see out there, period.

You can find it for under $ through all the vendors you associate with 3D printers, including Amazon, Gearbeast, and Creality itself. It’s not only affordable, but it’s also accessible, and you’ll have a lot of outlets to shop around to ensure you’re getting the best of the best deal.

Ender 3 Assembly

You may still be wary after hearing the Ender 3 is a kit and not a fully assembled printer. So many 3D printers can pass themselves off as good deals because you’re doing all the work to get them going.

But with the Ender 3, the assembly process is virtually painless. This good start to your experience gives you a boost to enjoy the rest of your printing sooner and with more understanding of how things work.

Ender 3 Size

Although the Ender 3 is by no means the largest – or smallest, if you’re into that – desktop 3D printer out there, its balance of print area and compactness makes it the golden ideal in its class. The printing size area is big enough for a large size range of personal projects, and you can always print pieces to assemble together into a larger finished object.

And for the Ender 3, compactness is translated into putting a lot of great stuff into a package that doesn’t waste space. Desktop printing is always going to be a cramped market, so Ender 3 gives you plenty of room to do your thing without getting in the way of the rest of your life.

Ender 3 Print quality

It might take a little adjusting after your first few runs, but the Ender 3 gets what you want to do and helps that happen well. One of the ways it makes a great finished product is with its tight filament path – with fewer twists and turns for the filament to go through when it’s getting to the extruder, the smoother the print is going to be, especially when you’re working with flexible filaments like nylon.

Open source software

The Ender 3’s upgrade system is the best we’ve seen in a kit printer. You’re not left alone to fumble with a system that’s going to be incompatible with everything else you want to use, and you’ll be able to take advantage of any (or all!) of Creality’s available updates.

Those are growing by the day, as are the creative additions Creality users post for others to find and freely use on the internet. If you’re one to tinker around with code and put together something awesome, you can add your own ideas to the mix and get them out there for everyone to use.

Cons of the Creality Ender 3

Uneven base

The Creality 3 is not perfect, and the most obvious way it shows its flaws is through its printer base. It doesn’t lie flat, which of course causes issues if you don’t correct it. The motion of the printing arm and extruder makes the base wobble unless you stick a corrective wedge under the uneven part.

Happily, the fix is just as easy as that. You don’t have to use any special piece of equipment or print any extension, you just have to make sure the base’s footing is evened out. But even if it is a snap to correct, you have to remember to do so to keep your prints from turning into disasters, and this also makes keeping the printer bed level difficult.

Manual calibration

Related to your quest to even up the printer base is the need to manually calibrate your heater bed on a consistent basis.

This means to get the absolute best prints you can, you’ll have to manually calibrate it before every print you do. This is hands down the most annoying aspect of using the Ender 3 – but relatively speaking, it’s not such a terrible payoff for the amazing performance you get elsewhere in the printing process.

Bed adhesion

The first layer of any 3D print steers the direction of the rest of the print, either into perfection or disaster.

The Ender 3’s BuildTak-ish grip finish on its heater bed occasionally needs a little assistance towards greatness in this area; using an outside adhesion material is all you need, though, something like a permanent glue stick from Elmer’s. That’s all it takes to fix this little quirk, so whether you’re just starting out or a 3D printing veteran, you’ll be able to do it yourself no problem.

 

About the Prusa i3 MK3

As another top-of-the-line 3D printer kit, the Prusa i3 MK3 (and now the new MK3S version) is impressive for a 3D printer, period.

It boasts innovations that make it a contender beyond its perceived weight class, and its desktop status puts these in the hands of anyone who wants to experience it. It’s also something you have to put together, but it’s worth it. Trust us.

The Original PRUSA I3 MK3S+ | Prusa3D
The Original PRUSA I3 MK3S+ | Prusa3D

Basic features magnetic PEI Spring steel sheet EINSY RAMBo Base plate Silent Trinamic drivers with microstepping Maximum travel speed: in per second. The Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ is the latest version of their award-winning 3D printers.

Check Price

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Prusa i3 MK3 Specifications

Printing technology

FFF, FDM

Print area

mm x mm x mm

Printer size

mm x mm x mm

Printer weight

kg

Filament type

mm, PLA, HIPS

Extruder Nozzle diameter

mm

Maximum print speed

50 mm/s

Maximum layer resolution

Not listed

Print precision

mm

Heated bed

no

Connectivity

SD, USB

LCD screen

yes

Pros of the Prusa MK3

Frame strength

The Prusa i3 MK3 holds up to a lot. Its rigidness is a major upside and a great example of how build kits don’t necessarily have to suffer stereotypical pitfalls of weak points where they fit together.

A more rigid frame is going to give you a much steadier print, which will give you prints that reflect your design with perfect accuracy. And of course, frame rigidity is great for counteracting any rough environment hazards you may encounter.

Crash detection

3D printing can be such a nerve-racking process. Hours of painstaking planning can be wiped out with a single unplugging, and even just needing to pause in the middle of a project can make the rest of the project go wonky.

The Prusa i3 MK3 has eliminated all that. It detects crashes with plenty of time for you to deal with the potential issues, so if you are less than certain about your set up, you’ll know where to double and triple check as you’re going along.

Power failure backup

No electrical grid is immune to going down, especially in the face of Mother Nature or other people who share your workspace.

The Prusa i3 MK3 understands that, and it’s prepared for whatever disaster you throw at it. Its smooth transition from full speed to powering down is incremental enough to keep your place as a true pause.

You don’t have to worry about getting back to a specific point; it does that for you. You don’t have to worry about losing any information; it won’t. You don’t have to worry about remembering to save at regular intervals (although that’s still a great idea!); it pretty much does that for you. You get the idea.

Excellent documentation

If you are intimidated or overwhelmed by 3D printing in general, know that the Prusa i3 MK3 has support out the wazoo. In fact, Prusa printer support and documentation is second to none.

Whether you’ve decided to buy one to start your 3D printing journey, whether you are curious about building your own machine, whether you’re looking to add to your collection without breaking the bank – the Prusa i3 MK3 has your back.

Its thorough support manual and thriving, active online community can help you clear up any questions or problems you might come across. Plus you’ll meet some great people who share your passion for 3D printing.

Removable magnetic print bed

This is an unassuming feature that makes such a difference for the better that you’ll be wondering how you ever 3D printed without it.

Since the print bed is flexible, it’s easy to adjust as you need, and the fact that it’s attached with magnets make it even easier to remove, clean, and put back in place without needing any tools or real manufacturing know-how.

Autocalibration

This printer has nine points of automatic calibration, which keeps everything amazingly safe from errors while printing. It will adjust as it goes along so your print details and finish will stay true in line.

OctoPrint upgrades

Prusa teams ups with the OctoPrint for one of the most consistent printing software upgrade services out there. You can get the full usage of OctoPrint whenever you use the Prusa i3 MK3, and there are tons of places online you can download it for your use. And it’s a totally free software with a lot of fans out there who will help you figure out what you need and what version is best.

Cons of the Prusa MK3

Prusa i3 MK3 Price

You get a lot of cool features that make your 3D printing a premium experience with the Prusa i3 M3 – but you’ll pay full price for it. At around $, this is not a buy to take lightly without seriously considering your budget.

It’s not for the light of wallet, and if you’re not absolutely certain you’ll get $ worth of use out of 3D printing as a hobby or business, look elsewhere for a better deal.

Filament detection system [Flexible Filament]

This is a great addition to any 3D printer, and the Prusa i3 MK3 doesn’t stint on the fancy extras that make your printing easier. However, this one can be fooled by a clear filament.

If you’re using any kind of filament without color, the filament detection system in here won’t see it, and unfortunately, this isn’t a quirk you can fix.

In my experience, it’s not enough of an issue to deter from the great aspects of this printer, but if you lean heavily on clear filament for your output, you’ll have to either find another printer or monitor this one very closely to make sure you don’t run out in the middle of your projects.

Quality of printer parts

A few of the parts for the printer are 3D printed themselves, like the frame for the LCD control screen, and while the parts easy to add into the smooth build experience, they are not at the same visual quality of the non-3D printed parts.

There are surface discrepancies that, although few and far between and don’t interfere with functionality, are noticeable. If you know this will bug you, you can always print your own replacements.

Frequent updates

Because this printer has so many components and features that are new to the field in general, the Prusa i3 MK3’s firmware will be updating constantly.

It will level out as these features become more widespread, but as anyone who is a frequent tech trailblazer knows, the kinks will have to work themselves out as they’re being used. You won’t be a beta tester, but you will be reaping the immediate benefits of those who were.

Final Verdict: Creality Ender 3 vs Prusa MK3?

This is a really tough choice. Both the Creality and Prusa printers produce excellent quality 3D objects, and they both give you a wonderfully supported building experience. We highly recommend both of these kits for a 3D printing enthusiast.

We would say the real decision comes down to what design quirks you are willing to work with, but all of these have easy fixes, and the real difference is the price.

Bottom Line Summary: So if you want to see what the 3D printing fuss is all about, the Ender 3 is the perfect place to start. If you’re looking for a kit that ups the game and lets you try out a bunch of new features, the Prusa i3 MK3 is worth its price here, if you’ve got the money. You really can’t go wrong either way.

Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer | Matter Hackers

The Creality 3D printer line is completely open-source, allowing for add-ons and upgrades of almost every component on the machine. This 3D printer gives you an awesome foundation for experimentation.

Check Price Buy at Amazon.com

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Further Reading on 3D Printer Model Options

Sours: https://total3dprinting.org/endervs-prusa-i3-mk3/

Ender prusa 3 vs

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Prusa Mini vs. Ender 3

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