Arctic cat gas tank removal

Arctic cat gas tank removal DEFAULT

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how to remove gas tank on 2009 arctic cat crossfire

Models covered in this manual:
- Bearcat Z1 XT
- Bearcat 570 (XT)
- Crossfire 1000
- Crossfire 1000 Sno Pro (LE)
- Crossfire R 1000 (LE)
- Crossfire 8
- Crossfire 8 Sno Pro (LE)
- Crossfire R 8 (LE)
- Crossfire 6
- Crossfire 5
- F1000 Sno Pro
- F8 (LE), F8 LXR, F8 Sno Pro, F6 Sno Pro
- F5, F5 LXR
- F570
- M1000 162
- M1000 153
- M1000 Sno Pro 162 (LE)
- M1000 Sno Pro 153
- M8 162, M8 162 Sno Pro
- M8 153, M8 153 HCR, M8 153 Sno Pro, M8 Sno Pro 153 (LE), M6 153
- Sno Pro 120
- T Z1, T Z1 LXR, T Z1 Turbo LE, T Z1 Turbo Touring LXR
- T500
- T570
- Z1, Z1 LXR, Z1 Turbo (LE), Z1 Turbo LXR, Z1 Turbo Sno Pro

Manual chapters:
- General Information
- Engine
- Engine Related Items
- Fuel Systems (EFI or Carbureted)
- Engine Electrical Systems
- Chassis Electrical Systems
- Steering and Body
- Drive Train and Brake Systems
- Track/Rear Suspension

Manual has 671 pages.

File size 79.72Mb.

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Sours: http://eu.crxsi.com/reference/manuals/snowmobiles/how-to-remove-gas-tank-on-2009-arctic-cat-crossfire.htm

Another one back from the dead (1997 King Quad 300 LT-FWDX)

By Hagbard

Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there... 

Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled ass to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co.
Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads!


Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles.


PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged.  So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.

Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb!



So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match.   A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite?

Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield.

First fire up - lots of smoke

While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.

Testing reverse

Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops.  Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire  Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues.

Testing Diff Lock in High Range

Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS:


put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off.

Long Live The King

All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump.

I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks   Hope you didn't hate my post.

Sours: https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/6654-need-help-05-arctic-cat-500-4x4-problem/
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6. Loosen the clamp securing the throttle body to the

intake manifold boot and remove the throttle body

assembly.

7. Use tape to cover and seal the intake opening.

CAUTION

Any objects or liquid entering the intake opening will

fall into the engine causing severe damage if the engine

is turned over or started.

INSTALLING THROTTLE BODY

1. Install the throttle body into the intake manifold boot

and secure with the clamp. Tighten to 30 in.-lb.

2. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body; then

connect the gasline hose.

3. Connect the electrical connectors to the throttle body

components.

4. Install the air filter boot and secure with the existing

hardware.

5. Install the seat base, seat back, and seat.

Gas Tank

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leakage,

there should be no welding, smoking, open flames, etc.,

in the area.

REMOVING

1. Remove the seat, seat back, and seat base; then

remove the floorboard.

2. Disconnect the vent hose (A), gasline hose (B), and

fuel pump/fuel level sensor connector (C); then cap

the vent fitting and gas hose fitting.

122

FI092A

3. Remove the outer cap screw securing the front tank

hold-down; then swing the hold-down to the left.

4. Remove four press-nuts securing the gas cap filler

panel; then remove the gas cap and panel. Install the

gas cap.

PR698A

PR167A

PR170

PR168

Sours: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/808858/Arctic-Cat-Prowler-Hdx.html?page=125
Arctic cat 700 fuel pump replacement

For example, I gave up. Not right away, but does that really change the thread. Now I'll finish if you don't stop.

Gas removal tank cat arctic

O-aahhh. Ne menee yarko vspyhivaya blikami vlagi (. Yes sverkayuschim perelivom vysoko-kabluchnyh botfort), ona, yavno zhelaya burnoy razvyazki, razdalas pronzitelnym vskrikom.

Empty gas without removing tank Arctic car H1 400 Trv

I can see the fear on his face. He appreciated the difference in the size of our organs and is trying to move away from me. On the contrary, I pull him by the hips towards me.

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Then I forced myself to get up and cook dinner. There was very little time left before the arrival of the owners. I wrote down the phone number on a piece of paper and put it in my jacket, then. I took a shower, carefully washing the ink off my skin. The evening passed as usual.



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